Can protective styles damage hair?

Summer has arrived, and you know what that means; hot, humid weather calls for protective styles that keep your client’s strands up, away, and protected. But can those protective styles damage their hair?

Short answer is: yes. Some protective styles, like braids and twists, can cause mechanical damage. Think of the hair knots, tangles, and split ends you come across—that’s mechanical damage. This is the wear and tear from tugging, brushing, or manipulating strands. It can happen outside of protective styles too, but these are especially prone to causing tension.

So, what can you do about it? I’m glad you asked.

Even with low-maintenance protective styles, the key is in proper prep and aftercare. Before the appointment, chat with your client about the game plan! Do you want them to come in with their hair stretched? Will you braid it wet? This will help them understand what prep to do before getting into your chair.

hair prep

Properly prep your client’s strands with a cleansing and detangling routine. Tackling buildup is a must as it weighs down their curls + coils and can create rough, damaged, and frizzy hair. Removing all that product buildup, dirt, oils, and metals will leave their strands really clean and much easier to work with.

PRO TIP: If you still notice a sticky feeling, do a chelating or demineralizing treatment. This will treat metal + mineral buildup on your client’s hair for maximum hydration penetration—and softer strands to work with.

damage repair

This is my secret to longer-lasting protective styles: use molecular repair to reverse damage all the way in the innermost layers of hair, giving you a stronger hair canvas. Best part? The protective styles can better withstand tension for longer with less frizz and split ends.

pick the protective style

Do your clients need help picking a protective style? The best recommendation depends on their goals, what their crown looks like, and their lifestyle. When chatting with your client, here’s what to keep in mind:

Hair thickness (fine, medium, coarse)
Hair density (how much hair they have)
How long + large the style is (how much tension it will create)
How long they want to keep their look for

Your clients may want to go for the trendiest look, but finding a style that fits their crown will be better for their long-term hair health. Specific styles like large-sized box braids on fine hair can cause a lot of tension and strain at the base. Besides being more uncomfortable day-to-day, it can cause breakage or even traction alopecia. That doesn’t mean they can’t rock this look, but you could recommend they wear it for less time or have a smaller-sized braid.

Get a look at some protective style options:

haircare

What your client does AFTER they get their protective style matters, especially if they want a longer-lasting look with less damage.

Buildup can worsen if your clients work out or swim in chlorinated or salt water. Advise your clients to lightly rinse and shampoo their braids + twists with a clarifying shampoo. This will help remove any buildup that can block hydration penetration and molecular repair products.

PRO TIP: After washing, recommend your clients let their hair dry fully before sleeping. Wet hair runs the risk of developing dandruff, fungus, or even mildew, especially near the scalp—and we don’t want that.

Hair needs protection from friction to keep strands smooth, hydrated, and in place. Ask your clients if they use a bonnet, hair scarf, or satin pillowcase while sleeping to prevent further mechanical damage.

post-protective style

When you’re ready to take out their protective style, it’s time to clarify, repair, and rest their hair. One thing to look out for is hair shedding. It accumulates from the everyday hair fall hidden in the protective style—so don’t panic if you see a whole lot of hair fall.

Next, be sure to detangle pre-shampoo to prevent tangling or matting. Start from the ends, and gently work your way up to the roots. I like to have their hair slightly damp (not soaking wet) to make it more pliable—especially if it hasn’t been detangled in a while.

Chances are, there’s buildup from oils, sebum, products, and minerals + metals hidden in your client’s curls and coils. Cleanse with a detox shampoo to remove residue in those hard-to-reach areas, clearing the path for hydration and molecular repair. Going in with a repair treatment afterward delivers maximum damage repair for strong, bouncy hair again.

I get that when your clients feel like expressing yourself, waiting is the last thing they want to do, but protecting their hair health and strength is important, too. Recommend they try to wait at least 1-2 days after natural styles, and at least 3-7 days post sew-ins or braids. If they reallllly want to prioritize hair health, they can ideally wait 2-3 weeks before getting a new protective style. After that, their expression is endless.

x Alifia, Curly-Coily Expert + K18 Educator

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